Dalesman February 2012

My trips this month span the breadth of North Yorkshire, with visits to Leyburn, Thirsk, and Sutton Bank.

Castle Bolton is a visitor attraction near Leyburn

Castle Bolton, once a fearsome Mediaeval stronghold, now a peaceful visitor attraction

In Leyburn, Alix Warland and Martin Crowson were typical of so many people I meet in the Dales.  For every person who can trace their family back over generations in the same village, there’s someone else who has moved in because they fell in love with the Dales.  And that love has caused them to throw themselves wholeheartedly into learning about their new home, and supporting its community.

As we drank our coffee, we fell to discussing the shopping in Leyburn.  Martin described it as “A totally difference experience to a lookalike high street.”  And, he commented, “There are three food stores, including one of the finest independents in the country.”

I had to agree.  I’ve bought things in Leyburn that I couldn’t find in other towns.  For instance, the household goods store in the former town hall, smack in the centre of the market place, is an Aladdin’s cave for the homemaker.

And Leyburn is a hidden gem for quality clothes and shoes, as well as food.

In fact, as I walked back to the car, a shop caught my eye, I nipped in for a browse – and came out with a new skirt.

A result for Leyburn!

Find out more about visiting Leyburn at www.welcometoleyburn.co.uk

Prof Dominic Powlesland

Prof Dominic Powlesland has spent decades studying the prehistoric landscape of Yorkshire

Over at Sutton Bank, Professor Dominic Powlesland, of the Landscape Research Centre, was explaining what they discovered when they dug a Bronze Age burial mound at Boltby Scar.  Such burial mounds pepper the Moors, and, he says, the remains of many more lie beneath the ploughed fields of the Vale of Pickering.

Traditionally, they were believed to be the burial place of an important personage, but Dominic’s work now points, he says, to longer term use as a burial site over hundreds of years, perhaps for a family or clan.

The barrow they dug at Boltby, he thinks, may be indicative of similar practices for other, similar looking barrows.  He says it revealed, “A long and complex history of both construction and robbing.”

They identified six phases of the life of the barrow.  Phase 1 was a stone ring, with large irregular limestone blocks laid on bed of pebbles.  They think it may have defined the area of a flat cemetery.  There was evidence of burning – perhaps funeral pyres?

Phase 2 was a turf mound within the stone ring.  There was lots of charcoal in the turf – carbonised hazel shells, indicating domestic activity.  Carbon 14 dating gave an age of around 1920-1730 BC.

They called phase 3 the ‘yellow mound’, as a thick deposit of yellow-brown clayey soil had been laid over the charcoaley soil of phase 2.

Phase 4 was a pebbly mound that covered over the yellow clay and extended to the stone ring.  It was made of clean silty soil with a layer of pebbles on the surface.

Phase 5 placed a wattle fence around the mound, with limestone slabs leaning up against the fence.  The vertical slabs of pale limestone, high on the escarpment, would have been visible from a considerable distance.

At phase 6, the whole mound , fence and stone rings were buried with a thick layer of fine silty soil.  Covering the limestone dimished its visibility in the landscape, but made the mound taller.

Dominic thinks that these phases probably developed over hundreds of years, starting around 2000 BC, in the early Bronze Age.  That is why he believes that it was used for many burials, not just one single person.

Whatever the significance of the mound to its original builders, the mound continues to draw people to it even today, around four thousand years later.

Read more about Dominic’s work at www.landscaperesearchcentre.org

Later this year, an exhibition of the findings at Boltby will be staged at Sutton Bank Vistor Centre.

Advanced student Alex Coode learns about historic ironwork at C Topp and Co

Advanced student Alex Coode learns about historic ironwork at C Topp and Co

Meanwhile, today, Chris Topp’s ironworks near Thirsk are attracting visitors from far and wide, who come to learn about his work with historic iron.

Although Chris also designs and makes brand new items, he has been involved with restoring historic iron work for decades.

He also does ‘practical archaeology’: making a replica of a historic artefact, in order to discover how it was made.  Much of this work has been filmed for TV, and he’s been involved in projects relating to a Roman Well, the Titanic, the Mary Rose, and even the Eiffel tower.

So when it was decided to form a body to provide proper training and qualifications for people working on valuable historic ironwork, it was natural that Chris should be involved.

The National Heritage Iron Group has been formed in order to provide training for a new generation of blacksmiths to continue learning the historic skills to care for our ironwork heritage.

www.christopp.co.uk

www.nhig.org.uk

Dalesman January 2012

For the start of 2012, Dalesman looks at two very traditional sets of people.

Doreen Wardle, speaker of East Yorks dialect

Doreen Wardle, speaker of East Yorks dialect

Doreen Wardle lives in Harome, and speaks the dialect of East Yorkshire.  Like other north-east coastal speakers, her voice had a sing-song rythm that you need to ‘get your ear in’ to understand.

Soon, though we were laughing,  and when it was time to leave, initially I was sorry to part with her.  But I remembered that she’d mentioned  that she enjoys views of two thatched cottages from her home in Harome, so I decided to take a walk around the village.

I was fascinated by the range of different building materials there.  I’m used to villages that are mainly built of one material: bricks in the Vale of York, limestone in the Dales.  Roofs are usually of clay pantiles, slates, or ‘thakking stones’.  But in Harome, quite a few buildings were thatched, including the well-known gastro-pub ‘The Star’.

Other houses were built of brick, or of stone.  One very ancient looking little cottage had lovely Yorkshire sash windows.

And one house looked like a modern build, but still had a thatched roof.

I think it will be worth finding out a little bit more about the houses in Harome.

Peter Meese calls the dancers

Peter Meese calls up the dancers to perform in Kirkby Malzeard Church

And over in Kirkby Malzeard, the men were celebrating a very ancient tradition: Plough Sunday.  Unusually, in Kirkby, a sword dancing troupe dances in Church to mark this day – the return to work after the Christmas break.

But the sword dancers don’t stop for Christmas: Boxing Day is one of their fixed dates for dancing.  Spokesman Ted Dodsworth says: “People are waiting for us.” Fellow group member  Peter Meese says, “we dance it innumerable times, up and down the village.”

Kirkby Malzeard has boasted a sword dancing team for many generations, but the dancers’ outfits have varied over the years.  Ted says, “I asked a chap who danced in the 1930s about the uniform.  He said you got a pair of trousers and used your own belt.  The trousers were ‘one size fits all’ and I’ve got a photograph of a freat wide pair of trousers.”

“In the 1950s, they wore flowered skirts.  It was a women’s team, and I’m told it’s very difficult to do the dance wearing a skirt.”  Ted adds, “Womens’ teams weren’t ususual.  After the Great War, there was a shortage of men, and Cecil Sharp taught women so that the dances wouldn’t die out.”

Today, the team is back to a traditional all men group – smartly dressed in matching trousers, shirts and waistcoats.  And very smart they look too, while dancing to the Glory of God.

Read more about the Highside Longsword dance team at  http://www.teddodsworth.talktalk.net/hl/highside.htm

Dalesman November 2011

158 squadron memorial includes the names of those who gave their lives

The 158 Squadron memorial is inscribed with the name of each serviceman who gave his life

In this November’s issue of Dalesman, I met the man who sculpted the memorial to 158 Squadron, Bomber Command, who flew from Lissett Airfield.

Every November, when Remembrance Day comes around, I hear yet another humbling story of the courage of ordinary people who were called upon to do extraordinary things.

‘Bluey’ Mottershead, who flew in 158 Squadron, told me: “Many people like myself didn’t consider being shot down.  We never thought about it. I had 14 gunners fly with me on operations, in all.  They told me the best way: my job was to fly; the navigator’s job was to get us there.”

‘Bluey’ was lucky enough to survive his time in Bomber Command, but many were less fortunate.

Peter Naylor, the artist who designed the Memorial sculpture at Lissett Airfield, studied as much as he could about the airmen he was commemorating.  He says, “Bomber Command ran missions every night from September 1939 until the end of the War.  ”

He adds, “When a plane was carrying 10 tons of incendiary bombs and 100 gallons of aviation fuel, if it was hit, it just vapourised into the sky.  The people in Bomber Command had the courage to keep going out, night after night, after seeing planes next to them just blow up and disappear.”

Peter said that he found many books, and that interest in the 1939-45 War doesn’t seem to be waning.  He speculates: “I think perhaps one reason for that is because it was absolutely a national war – everyone was involved, and the nation was united.”

Even after making the memorial, Peter is still discovering more about the men who served in 158 Squadron.  This is because he also made a miniature of the sculpture, and says, “People still come to buy the miniatures, and everyone has a story to tell.”

“I try to take the details of everyone who buys a miniature, like a little family.  I mean to compile all their stories into a dossier.”

The sculpture won the Marsh Award for Excellence in Public Sculpture, and Harry Irons accompanied Peter to collect the award.  Peter says, “Harry joined up when he was under age.  He knew that the life expectancy was about six weeks – he was a real hero.”

Peter says he’s never had a commission that means as much to him as the 158 Memorial, and he is now interested in making other Memorial Sculptures.  He has bid to make one to mark the contribution of the Women’s Land Army – so we may be hearing more of Peter Naylor and his work.

INFORMATION:

The 158 Memorial stands beside the road from Lissett to Gransmoor.

The Squadron Association holds an annual memorial service over the first weekend of September.  For details, see www.158squadron.co.uk, or telephone 0181 467 6775

Miniatures are available from Peter Naylor, who also gives talks about the Memorial.  Contact him on 01482 868311, or at www.peternaylor.co.uk

Dalesman Magazine, September 2011

The new Dalesmans are out, with yet more insights into what makes Yorkshire such a great place to live, work, or take a holiday.

UNIVERSITY OF YORK DEPT OF ARCHAEOLOGY

The Archaeology Department is in a historic building in York

For this month’s edition, I visited Nicky Milner, an archaeologist at York University whose work had unearthed tantalising evidence that raises the question of whether there was a stone age settlement near Pickering.

She’s been working on the archaeology of Star Carr for decades and says, “The more we find, the more questions we bring up.  It’s my dream to get back and dig again.”

They have found remains of a house and a waterside ‘platform’ –  perhaps a pier, boardwalk, or wharf – towards one corner of a roughly traingular promontory jutting into the lake.  Test pits show more human acitivity on the rest of promotory.  Might there be more houses there?   Was it a base camp, a summer hunting lodge, or even a village?

It’s exciting because current thinking says that at this time, human activity in Yorkshire was limited to small groups of itinerant hunters.  But to build a platform requires lots of people to come together, and work together.  So this work could revolutionise beliefs about stone age society.

The stone age seems so long ago – but other evidence shows these people to be very like us: discoveries of beads show that they liked to make themselves look good, just as we do today.

Nicky and her colleagues are desperate to discover more – and time is running out.  Laboratory work this winter has proved that the valuable organic remains, having survived for 11,000 years, are beginning to decay.

The race is on to dig and find out more before the evidence is lost forever.

Read more about Nicky’s researches in Dalesman, and at www.starcarr.com

Woodalls of Malton is in the Market Place

Woodall's of Malton is housed in a historic building in the Market Place

Over in Malton, Winston Kobylka is doing his part to preserve traditional craft skills.

He says that he’d heard that Woodall’s was for sale, so went along to take a look.  He says that he walked in, liked it, and asked to buy it ‘just like that’.

He’s scathing of people who ask questions about business plans and how much money he expects to make.  “I’m not in it for that,” he says, “It’s that we’re sustainable and make ecological products which will safeguard the future.”

He believes that everything can’t be made abroad for ever, and hopes that Woodall’s will help to keep skills alive in Britain.  But, they are still dependent on imports for raw materials, and he says, “Sadly, economic times have us battling against costs of cotton, sisal and hessian.  Some is produced in the UK, but the majority is sourced overseas.”

And he adds, “Hessian or jute may spend 4 months at sea, during which time the price changes several times.  It’s to do with the futures market, currency fluctuations, and forward trading.”

It’s likely he knows what he’s talking about: he listed some of his previous jobs.  As well as working in historic building conservation, he’d done photography, basketry, technical work for the Department of Transport, translating, supply chain management, and, most recently, teaching economics.

Now he’s adding rope splicing to his many skills, but when he walks around his shop, he’s like a child in a toy shop, revelling in the sheer variety of the stock.

“Look at the glove cupboard,” he said, showing a large double cupboard filled with all sorts of gloves.  And the halters – for animals ranging from bulls to ferrets.  There were racks and racks of different sorts of string and rope, trays and drawers of knives, scissors, and equipment for sheep and lambs.

Woodall’s is one of those shops that’s full of ‘useful stuff’, and the more you look, the more you see.  And it’s well worth asking too – assistant Dilys has been there for twenty one years, and knows what’s there.

Many customers are farmers, and Winston says, “Canvas and tarpaulin covers for horse drawn wagons were the backbone of this business.  Now we use a lot of PU and PVC for tarpaulins, but still the main business is these covers, mainly for agricultural use.”

Covers to protect from weather will always be useful – and so too is the rope to tie them down.  Winston says, “The history of rope is fundamental to all industries.”

Woodall’s is in the centre of Malton,  www.gwoodall.com/

Roger Sedgwick, third generation farmer

Roger Sedgwick, dairy farmer, tests his grass for silage

Later  I ventured over the Pennines to Sedbergh, where I visited the Sedgwick family.   I was struck at how different the landscape was to the Moors and Pennine Dales that I see from my home in the Vale of Mowbray.

My nearest hills are the North York Moors, flat-topped and dark with heather.

The hills at the Sedgwicks’ farm on the Howgill Fells were very different: much higher, rounded, and a uniform soft light green colour.  From the distance of the lower slopes, they looked as if clad in apple-green velvet.

Roger explained they had rights for grazing the high fells, in addition to their own farmland lower down the hill.  His father Geoff keeps the Rough Fell sheep that are adapted to the area.  But he explained that many of the families that had farmed the fells in his youth have now given up farming.  The land is concentrating into fewer farms – who are keeping fewer sheep.

This could lead to the landscape changing again.  I consulted the Yorkshire Dales National Park website to find about the Howgills, and it said that, centuries ago, forest was cleared to make way for sheep farming.  Without the sheep, maybe one day this forest might return: Roger commented that gorse that had been cleared was now growing again on the fell.

Aside from the sheep, Roger also commented that administrators over the years had caused confusion in their location:  “We were in the West Riding of Yorkshire.  Now we’re under Cumbria County Council, we have a Lancaster Post Code, and we’re in the Yorkshire Dales National Park.”

Now, debate is raging as to whether more of this area should be taken into the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  There are views on both sides, and only time will tell who wins.

Meanwhile, there is no doubt that the Howgills are a strikingly different – and breathtaking – landscape.

Like all English landscapes, it’s a landscape that has been shaped by farming, and farming now is changing.  Smaller farms need to diversify to survive, and the Sedgwicks plan to do this by making ice cream.

However, it may not be such a new development after all.  Geoff recalls his father being involved in a number of business ventures: “He was a master cabinetmaker,” recalls Geoff.  “I came across someone with furniture he made, dated 1895, the year he came here.”

“He was into lots of things, though.  For three years, he had three farms – he gave two of them up after a few years.  He was also an insurance agent, and sold dips.”

He also built himself a nice new house, that the family now lets out to holidaymakers.

Roger adds, “He was also in the local Militia.  He guarded the King and Queen’s train at Sedbergh in 1917.  They stopped at the station and slept in the train overnight.”

Roger also says, pointing at a field now grazed by his cows:  “My Grandfather was also at Gallipolli.  When he came home, he walked up from Sedbergh Station in the evening, and next morning, he was ploughing that field.”

Nowadays, Roger cuts silage to feed his cows in winter, and his pastures are full of rich grass.  On the higher slopes, open with no fences or walls, his father Geoff’s Rough Fell sheep graze.

Roger now hopes that his latest addition to the family’s ventures, ice cream, will keep the family farming for another generation.

See www.holidaysedbergh.co.uk

email: sedgwick665@btinternet.com  Telephone: 01539 620252

Geoff’s Rough Fell Sheep are featured in “Kendal Rough Fell Sheep: the breed, the people and the furture”, published by the Rough Fell Breed Association, www.roughfellsheep.co.uk

Read everything in full in Dalesman Magazine, in print only, from good newsagents, or visit  www.dalesman.co.uk for a money-saving subscription.

Dalesman August 2011, Rosedale Railway

A view across Rosedale

paths lead from the road to the old track bed of the Rosedale Railway

When I met members of Rosedale History Society and Kirby, Great Broughton and Ingleby Greenhow History Group to discuss the Rosedale Railway, I realised that we could talk all day, and I still wouldn’t have heard all that they have discovered.

So I asked each of them what aspect of their discoveries had affected them most deeply.

Linda Chambers, of Rosdale, says, “We’ve been collecting information on all aspects of Rosedale’s history, especially about the people who lived there.”

From this perspective, she sees the Ironstone rush of 1850 to 1929 as a ‘blip’ in the Dale’s history.  Before that, it was a farming area with a Priory of nuns – and that was destroyed by Henry VIII.

When the mines closed in 1929, the people who had come to work in them quickly dispersed.  She suspects that many emigrated to mining areas in other parts of the world, and her next research project is to try to track down some of their descendents.

Patrick Chambers also suspects that many miners emigrated, and says, “There’s a clue in that there are a lot of Rosedales, and Clevelands, around the world, especially in the Western USA.”

Despite the fact that the miners left, Patrick comments that many of their houses are still occupied, either by commuters or holidaymakers.

Patrick enjoys walking in the dale.  He’s been out with the local geology trust, and comments, “They built the houses out of ironstone, and now it’s rusting.”

He is also concerned that the relics of the mining era are deteriorating.  He’d contacted the National Park to see if anything could be done, but there was no money at present to preserve the remains of the calcining kilns.

Although he would like to preserve the historical remains, he is in no doubt that he has a nicer life than the miners of long ago.  He says, “In the ironstone mine, they worked 8 hour shifts in the darkness, and they had to buy their own candles and gunpowder – from the Company, of course.”

The kilns – 3 in all – were used to heat the iron ore with coal.  This enriched the iron content before the ore was transported over the moors to the iron works.

Wayne Barnacal, of the Kirby, Great Broughton and Ingleby Greenhow Local History Group, says, “It takes little imagination to reconstruct what it was like – most things can be seen.”

Wayne worked building and operating big chemical plants, and is impressed at the vigour of the Victorian engineers.  As well as the speed of construction of the railway, he says, “They had a major fire in the drumhouse at the top of the incline, and within a matter of months, they’d developed and installed new technology.”  Also, he says, “By modern health and safety standards, it’s a different world.”

He says, “It was demanding, dirty, dangerous work – but better than what else was available at the time.”

The incline was a major hazard: a steep bank, where trains were hauled up and down on a cable wound round a drum and connected to another train going the other way, acting as a counterbalance.

Even with the counterbalance, it was considered too dangerous for people to ride the incline, and they had to get out and walk.  Patrick says, “There were nasty accidents with people crushed by runaway wagons.”

The line was intended for goods only, but people did catch a ride in the brake van.

Geoff Taylor, of KGBIG group, enjoys anecdotes from people who lived and worked at the time, and says, “One lady lived in a railway cottage 1300 feet up at the top of the incline.  When the railway closed, she didn’t want to move.  You only need to go up there to see why – it has a fantastic panoramic view.”  And despite the remote location, she also spoke of a sense of community in the rows of cottages.

Geoff’s also noted Rosedale’s place in world history.  He says, “I saw a TV programme about mining in Australia.  The scale is colossal – Australia is being used as a continental mine for China.  But in a way, it was the same in Rosedale.  Although in comparison to today, the tonnages are different, in the 1860s and 70s, North Yorkshire was supplying 40% of the world’s ironstone – it was a big player in the world economy.”

Wayne says, “We keep getting new information, and people’s recollections.  The railway closed in 1929, so people alive then have direct remembrances – we want to capture as many of them as we can.”  They plan to archive these on a public website, as well as within their own collections.

Geoff says, “Another reason for making a website is that it gives access to people in places like Canda and Australia, who are connected by family or by profession.  We’d love them to get in touch.”

Linda says, “Descendants find things in the attic, or they remember Grandad telling them about Rosedale, and we’re keen to collect their reminiscences.”

INFORMATION:

Both groups are keen to receive any information, reminscences, documents or photos relating to the history of their areas.  They both hold regular meetings and events, and welcome new members.

Contact Rosedale History Society at: http://rosedale.ryedaleconnect.org.uk/2011/01/17/news/ email rosedalehistory@hotmail.co.uk, Tel 01751 417071

Contact KGBIG History Group at: http://www.kgbighistory.org.uk/ Tel 01642 712458

The joint website devoted to the history of the railway is: www.rosedalerailway.org

Grants from many organisations have helped them to publish a leaflet with a map of walks, and information about the history of the railway.  This is available by post (Telephone 01751 417071/01642 712458 to check P&P rates), or from outlets including the North York Moors Centre in Danby, Beck Isle Museum in Pickering, Ryedale Folk Museum in Hutton-le-Hole, and local public libraries

There is a display of Rosedale’s history at the White Horse Farm Inn, Rosedale Abbey, Tel 01751 417239, www.whitehorserosedale.co.uk, and the society will be at Rosedale Show, 10/11 Sept 2011.

A programme of joint walks with the North East Yorkshire Geology Trust is listed at:

www.avm-branding.com/neygt

Dalesman May 2011

Dalesman for May 2011 features two enjoyable, but very different visits.

Holgate Mill was  a surreal sight: an eighteenth century windmill in the middle of a street of comfortable twentieth century semi-detached family homes.

Bob Anderton beside the huge cogs that harness the wind to drive the grindstones

Bob Anderton beside the machinery of Holgate Windmill

When it was built, Holgate was the height of wind technology.  It boasted a fantail, a vane mounted to the rear of the mill that automatically aligned the mill to face the wind.

Previously, windmills had been mounted on a  post sunk in the ground.  When the wind direction changed, the miller had to rotate the entire building, millstones and all, to face the wind again – a hard, heavy job.

Older mills had four sails, usually made of canvas like the sails of a ship.  Holgate had five sails for maximum efficiency.  The sails were also fitted with shutters, like venetian blinds.  In low winds, the shutters were closed to catch as much wind as possible.  In high winds, the shutters were opened up to allow some wind to pass through, and avoid damage to the sails.

Despite being the height of technology when it was built, when electricity became easily available, the miller preferred to use an electric motor, rather than rely on the vagaries of the wind.  Even today, after restoring the wind powered machinery, the preservation society will run one grindstone on wind power, and the other with an electric motor, so that they can work when the wind doesn’t blow.

One of the joys of eighteenth-century engineering is that, unlike modern electronics,  it’s all big and visible.  Inside the mill,  giant cogs and shafts transmit the power from the rotating sails to the grindstones.  Most of the gears are cast iron, still strong and serviceable after over 200 years.  But many of the hoppers, vats and beams are wood, and years of damp and insects have destroyed these.  However, these have been built anew: the members of Holgate Mill Preservation Society have achieved a great deal in ten years.

Bob attributes this success to a skilled team, generous funders, and their strategy.  Rather than try to do all the work themselves, they went to a professional millwright, Tom Davies, and applied for grants to fund the work.

Visitors to the mill need to be fit and agile, as access to all four floors is by ladder.  As you progress up the tower, the rooms become progressively smaller, and right up in the cap, the room is dominated by a huge toothed wheel, attached the sails.  When the wind turns that wheel, it would be easy for the unwary to get caught in the machinery.  The picture above shows Bob Anderton, the chairman of the preservation society,  next to the great gear that is turned by the sails.

Bob hopes that soon the mill will be grinding corn, selling flour – and even possibly adding a bakery.

He says, “We want to grind flour and sell it for people to use.”  As the mill is currently in use as a mini-community hall, the addition of food can only mean even more visitors to this very unusual windmill.

For further information, see www.holgatewindmill.org or Telephone Bob  Anderton on 01904 795851

Holgate Mill was once cutting edge technology.  By contrast, Hackfall was always meant to evoke the past, created as a romantic ruin.

PAUL MOSLEY, THE WOODLAND OFFICER, ENJOYS A WALK AT HACKFALL

HACKFALL IS A SEMI NATURAL WOODLAND WITH ROMANTIC RUINS DESIGNED BY WILLIAM AISLABIE

Hackfall was originally woodland that would have been used for timber.  In fact, said Paul Mosley, Hackfall’s officer, “It’s believed that the Aislabies originally bought Hackfall for the timber, and for a tufa quarry, which they used to clad several buildings at Studley Royal.”

The Aislabies who bought Hackfall were famous for their landscape design around Fountains Abbey, now a World Heritage Site.  But their landscape at Hackfall, where they built  romantic ‘ruin’ eye-catchers in the forest, is less well-known.

But in its day, it was famous.  Turner painted it, and Victorian tourist guides advertised carriages from Ripon Station to Hackfall.   But, after years as a Victorian pleasure ground, the timber was all felled in the 1930s.

It chanced that the land was then bought by someone who went against the advice at the time, which was to replant with fast-growing, commercial conifers.  Instead, the new owner bided his time, and let nature take its course.

It has resulted in Hackfall now being classed as the relatively rare ‘semi natural ancient woodland.’  The semi-natural bit is because, says Paul – that lucky man whose job it is to know Hackfall intimately – “Most woodland has always been managed, and at Hackfall there’s evidence of limekilns, charcoal burning, and sawmills all in the wood.  But the seedbank, and the wildlife, such as invertebrates, are still there.”

“And there’s lots of wildlife.  We had a moth expert who trapped 158 species in one evening.”

Hackfall is made even more interesting by the series of follies built by the Aislabies.  They act as ‘eyecatchers’ and ‘surprises’ to draw walkers around the wood.

Hackfall is also full of falling water, with so many becks, trickles and cascades, it’s quite difficult to tell what’s natural and what’s man-made.  Which, of course, was the Aislabies’ intention: to enhance the natural landscape to make it more beautiful, and more interesting.   Nearly three hundred years later, it’s clear that they knew what they were doing.

Hackfall is beguiling at any time of year – I recommend a visit.

See www.woodlandtrust.org.uk and www.hackfall.org.uk for more, and information on how to get there, where to park, etc

News since the article went to print: Paul Mosley says that Hackfall has won

the Nostra Europa Award for its  Conservation / Restoration.

See: http://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/en/our-woods/hackfall/Pages/EuropaNostraAward.aspx?wood=5462

Or: http://www.europanostra.org/projects/50/

He adds that the restoration was achieved thanks to funding from The  Heritage Lottery Fund, The Hackfall Trust,  the Woodland Trust and volunteers,  the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Yorventure and the North Yorkshire Aggregates Grant Scheme.

To read my articles in full, in print only, buy Dalesman Magazine, www.dalesman.co.uk

MOWBRAY CASTLE, AN EYECATCHER BUILT BY THE AISLABIES

MOWBRAY CASTLE, ONE OF THE MANY EYECATCHERS EVOKING THE PAST GLORIES AT HACKFALL

DALESMAN MARCH 2011 JOHN WALKER WATCH REPAIRER

JOHN WALKER AT WORK

JOHN WALKER MAKING NEW PARTS TO REPAIR A WATCH

John Walker had a long career as a repairer of clocks and watches in Harrogate.

When I met him, he was retired – but he loved his work so much that he’d kept a few tools, so that he could still maintain his own clocks.

He explained that the first clocks had only one hand: knowing the hour was good enough in those days.  As he described how the clocks worked, how to repair them, and some of the different timepieces he’d worked on, I was interested to learn more about the history of timekeeping.

Looking at the history of timekeeping brings up the question ‘what is time?’  We all know how to tell the time: we look at our watch and it is, say 3.30.  Simple.  But once, this was cutting edge technology.

Before the invention of clocks, people told the time from the sun and the stars.  Sundials measured ‘temporal hours’ – each one a twelfth of the time between sunrise and sunset.  Therefore, the hours in summer really were longer, while in winter, the hours were short – twelve hours compressed into the brief period of light between sunrise and sunset.  Our fixed hours were only possible once someone had invented a clock.

Noon was the time when the shadow of the sundial was at its shortest, as the sun reached its highest point in the sky that day.  Due to the rotation of the earth, noon occurs at differing times at different longitudes (the imaginary lines running from the North Pole to the South Pole): Therefore, temporal noon in Scarborough, for instance, will occur slightly earlier than noon in Kendal.

In the Mediaeval period, people largely worked near home and accurate time keeping wasn’t necessary.  Furthermore, your work was your life: our modern day concept of selling our labour by the hour didn’t exist either.

In those days, the problem of accurately measuring time was cutting-edge science, a bit like studying sub-atomic particles today.

The ‘clockwork’ mechanisms we know evolved over the Mediaeval period.  The first such clocks were the preserve of the fabulously rich, and of large organisations.  It was the job of a watchman to check the town clock, and sound the hours.

Gradually, clocks became more widely available, but they were still set to local temporal time.  This didn’t matter until people began travelling quickly.  As railways began to cover the land, they found that varying local times were a problem – it even led to crashes.  So railways began keeping clocks at the stations, showing ‘railway time’.

Eventually, the Government took action, to set an official time for all parts of Britain.  And it used Greenwich Mean Time, a time standard that had been set up to help sailors to navigate the globe.

British Summer Time was instituted in 1916, as a wartime energy saving measure.  The clocks were advanced by an hour, allowing more daylight when people needed it.

According to the Greenwich Maritime Museum the idea was first suggested by one William Willett who enjoyed early morning rides in the summer.  He was incensed that, as he enjoyed the summer morning, many other people were still in bed.  So he proposed changing the clocks as a way of getting them up earlier to make use of the daylight, and save artificial lighting in the evening.

At first, his idea wasn’t liked.  But in 1916, Germany did it, and Britain, then at war, followed suit a few weeks later, creating British Summer Time.

All this, of course, can only happen because we have clocks.  Before mechanical clocks, when we told time by the sun, our rising and sleeping would automatically be related to dawn and dusk.

Changing the clocks raises people’s passions, and every autumn, when clocks go back and make it dark earlier in the evening, someone suggests we stay on BST for winter.

Moving the clocks, however, can’t actually create more light, and in winter, there is no escaping the short days.  BST means more light in the evening, but less light in the morning.

From 1986 to 1971 a three year experiment gave us ‘summertime’ – renamed ‘British Standard Time’ in winter.  Unsurprisingly, a review discovered pros and cons, especially the dark mornings, and we returned to GMT in winter.  I remember, as a child, going to school in the dark during that time – not much fun.

During the Second World War, we had ‘double summer time’ – BST in winter, then the clocks went forward another hour in summer.  Again, the aim was to save energy.  Therefore, some people are now suggesting we do this again, in the interest of saving energy to combat climate change.

Of course, anyone who wanted to take advantage of light summer mornings could simply get up earlier: what’s stopping them?

Today, most of use electronic quartz clocks and watches, rather than mechanical ones.  They too are the result of high technology, a spin off from space exploration.  But that’s another story.

Anyone interested in learning more about mechanical clocks, or finding someone to repair a clock, can contact the British Horological Institute, www.bhi.co.uk

Read the article in full in Dalesman Magazine, http://www.dalesman.co.uk/

Dalesman January 2011 – Myton Grange

Myton stud farm

BRICK CHIMNEY AT MYTON GRANGE STUD FARM

BRICK CHIMNEY AT MYTON GRANGE STUD FARM

Brothers Nick and Nigel Ramsden restored a Victorian Stud farm, with help from Natural England.  The brothers’ involvement with Natural England came about as a consequence of the closure of the British Sugar factory in York, back in 2007.  They lost the sugar beet trade that was begun by their grandfather, 80 years ago.

They searched for other options, and liked the idea of Environmental Stewardship – grants for developing wildlife and conservation friendly measures.

On their arable fields, the brothers set aside field margins up to 6m wide.  Over the whole farm, explains Nick, this amounted to taking about 30 acres out of production.  The margins are good, he says, for English Partridge which nest there, and Barn Owls that feed there.

Natural England also wanted to increase numbers of Corn Bunting, a ‘red list’ bird that was discovered living on the farm.  This small brown bird now has 5 acres devoted to pleasing it.  Nick says, “We grow 5 acres of spring barley with no herbicides, pesticides or fertisilisers, then leave it unharvested through the winter.”  He explains that this is because corn buntings nesting in such fields tend to be late nesters, and are therefore often damaged by harvesting.  Nick says, “By leaving the barley unharvested, the nests are safe, and the birds get feed through the winter.  Also, not using pesticides allows insects for the chicks to feed on.”

Leaving off the pesticides and fertilisers, says Nick, results in the field producing only around a quarter of the barley that would grow with the pesticides and fertiliser.  It also gets weedy – “but the weeds are good for wildlife.”

As well as the wildlife, Natural England was interested in heritage, and, says Nick, “When they built Easingwold bypass, they found a big Iron Age settlement that goes through one of our fields.”  To prevent damage to the remains of the roundhouses, the brothers stopped ploughing the field, and put it to permanent pasture.

The brothers’ farms, Home Farm and Myton Grange, were built with bricks that were shipped by barge up the river from York.  Nick says, “They built a railway from the river to bring the bricks up to the site.”  Nick notes that horses, not steam engines, hauled the bricks on the railway.  He says, “There was a steam engine at Home Farm, but it was a stationary one, with pulleys and belts to transfer power to machinery.”  Machines would have included turnip cutters, feed mills, and threshing machines.

Nick’s Grange Farm House is next to the stud stables, and he says, “My house was built in 1868, then they built Home Farm and the Stud Farm in 1870.”

The stud farm buildings have been restored using as much as possible of the original fabric, and traditional materials such as lime mortar and copper nails.  Nick says that a condiiton of grant assistance is that the buildings must be used for their historical purpose.  He is therefore hoping to find someone to use them, perhaps for livery or horse training.

At one corner of the stable yard stands the water tower.  Nick says, “In the 1870s, the Estate put up the water tower, which supplied the village, vicarage and school as well as the farm.  Spring water was intercepted before it went into the river, filtered through a sand filter, then pumped into the tower by steam engine.  There’s lots of historical interest because it was an early water supply.”

“It’s been out of use for 30 years, but we’ve relined it and it’s sound.”

Nick is hoping to develop a renewable energy pump to refill the tower and use it once more.

Nick is happy to host educational visits, by appointment only.  Contact him at 07976 751463

Read the full article, in print only, in Dalesman Magazine

THE YORK WAITS – THE BAND THAT PLAYED FOR 500 YEARS

I met the York Waits – aka William Marshall, Roger Richardson, Tim Bayley and John Peel -when they were leading the procession for the York Mystery Plays.  They had with them an impressive selection of instruments, including woodwind, brass, drums, and bagpipes.  Despite having no modern amplifiers, they made a powerful sound, performing to a considerable crowd.

All four of Waits confessed to an enthusiasm for Tudor music, for it trademark mingling harmonies and melodies.

They wore carefully-researched and reconstructed uniforms of red wool, with ‘Breughel boots’ – Mediaeval leather shoes.

Today’s mega bands would envy the longevity of the Waits as a band.  Player John Peel says, “They played for the best part of 500 years.”

Today, the band plays mainly 16th century music, which they have researched comprehensively.  One of their main instruments is the shawm, a reeded wooden wind instrument reminiscent of the oboe.

The Mystery Plays are a series of plays illustrating stories from the Bible.  They are ‘Mystery’ plays because they are performed by members of York’s Guilds – initiates into the ‘mysteries’ of their particular trade.  Each Guild acted out a story, using a wagon as a stage.  The wagons were pulled around the city, and the plays performed again at multiple stops.

The Mystery Plays were performed in Mediaeval times every summer on Corpus Christi day, but were, like many popular customs, suppressed by the Reformation.

They were revived for the Festival of Britain in 1951, and are now staged every four years.  They are a major spectacle, and involve Guilds that have survived for centuries.

Read the full article, in print only, in Dalesman Magazine, December 2010,  www.dalesman.co.uk

York waits  http://www.whitecottagewebsites.co.uk/york/cds.html

YORK WAITS THE TUDOR BAND

YORK WAITS, YORK'S TUDOR BAND

Dalesman October 2010

For Dalesman this month, I visited Glenys Marriott, Chairman of the Upper Dales Family History Group.

The  Group has celebrated its tenth anniverary by  assembling  over a hundred stories of families who left the Dales for new lives in America, Canada, New Zealand, and other far-flung places.

All the familiar Dales names are there, such as Alderson, Metcalfe, Calvert, Atkinson, Bell, and so on.

Glenys  said, “Younger men would return to visit, and persuade another family member to go.  But many people never returned.  One family left a teenage daughter with an aunt.  The girl never saw her parents again.”

The exhibition material includes family letters home, telling of life in the new lands.  Many faced great hardships, even for hardy Dalesfolk.  In one letter, written in 1849 by Jno Humphry of Low Thoresby, to brother-in-law Matthew Willis, in Wisconsin,  Jno wrote, “…you send such Horrifying accounts you terrify your sister Ellen that she dare not venture over the sea into a country where the frost is so exceedingly severe as allmost to Freeze the Kettle to the Fire.”

On the whole, though, the tough Dalesfolk made a success of their new lives.  And now, thanks to modern technology, families are being reunited.  Glenys lives in a remote dale, with only dial-up internet access.  Despite this, she has built e-mail contact with family history researchers from across the globe, and new generations of families once divided by the oceans are being reunited by the interenet.

And many of these people are now returning to the Dales to meet long-lost relatives, and see the exhibition of letters, photographs, and objects made by their forebears.

The Exhibition of  Those Who Left the Dales will be opened by Lord Crathorne at 2pm on Sat 2nd October at Tennants’ Auction Centre, Leyburn, and will run to16th October, 2010, (Closed Sundays.)

For opening times and directions, see Tennants Auction House, Tel 01969 623780

There will be an accompanying series of lectures, for which places are limited, therefore booking is advised.

To order the accompanying book, book lecture places, or join the UDFHG, contact Glenys Marriott on 01969 663738.  Glenys researches her maternal family line of Cumpston, and further details of the exhibition can be seen on her website at www.cumpston.org.uk

And, of course, you can read the full article, in print only, in Dalesman Magazine.  If you can’t find it in the shops, you can order it at  www.dalesman.co.uk