Dalesman for September 2010

The new Dalesmans are out, and this month, there are three features from me.  There’s a restored dewpond in the North York Moors, a fruit-growing co-operative in Husthwaite, and a visit to ‘graduates’ of the North York Moors National Park’s apprenticeship scheme.

In the midst of so much media angst about youth unemployment, it was a joy to meet youngsters who were doing well.  Back in 2002, the North York Moors National Park set up an apprenticeship scheme in environment and conservation work.  The scheme was massively oversubscribed, and those fortunate to get onto the scheme were all very keen.

So it was a pleasure to get back in touch, and find them all doing well, and happy in their work.  They were glad they did the apprenticeship that helped them to achieve their ambition of working outdoors in the countryside.

Nicky Saffer worked for a large forestry company, working on big contracts.  His work involves practical steps to improve our environment, planting trees and managing forests.

Other youngsters, among them Mark Aconley, had set up their own business.  Mark, and colleague Peter Hinchliffe, were filling the local need to repair dry stone walls – part of the landscape for hundreds of years, but now in need of a little attention.

Mark noted that spending all day heaving around tons of stone is a job for a fit young man – but he already had plans to develop his business, so that he could continue into his later years.

It’s not just the apprentices who were happy.  Steve Young, who has trained all the apprentices, enjoys working with the youngsters.  The first intake being all male, but there have been girls since.  Steve says, “The only people we can’t take are those with a degree, because we can’t get funding for them.  It’s very disappointing, as we’ve had very keen people with all the academic knowledge, but no practical knowledge.”

Richard Gunton, head of Park Services, was delighted by the apprenticeships, which have run every year since 2002.

He explains how, previous to the scheme, there was ‘leakage’ of young people – when they left school, they left the area, because there were no opportunities for them.

Now, says Richard, “12% of our full time work is done by apprentices, and it’s nice in the organisation to have young people working with us.  They’re brilliant: they’ve all worked hard, passed their exams, done very well, and gone on to full time employment.  The effort some of them put in puts a lot of us older folk to shame.”

“It’s been good for the Park, good for the young people, and good for the community.  Because the apprenticeship is so good, we’ve set up another team – the northern team.  They’re funded by Redcar and Cleveland Borough Council.  It’s a specific pot of money to tackle youth unemployment – but they’re a lovely team.”

The Park’s other apprenticeships are open to all applicants, and Richard says, “We’ve also set up a business administration apprenticeship.  And we worked with local farmers to help set up their hill farming apprenticeship.  We don’t employ those apprentices – the farmers do.

“There are always lots of applicants for the apprenticeships – anyone interested should telephone Ian Nicholls on 01439 770657”

“The most important part is that young people have enjoyed it, and they’ve got what they need out of it.  It’s been an absolute joy.”

Contact Mark Aconley, landscape contractor, on acorn150982@hotmail.com, Tel 07898 788843

Mark Aconley, who completed an apprenticeship with the North York Moors National Park

Mark Aconley, one time apprentice, now runs his own contracting business

North York Moors National Park http://www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/

The National Park also helped Ann Strang to organise the repair of a historic dewpond on her father’s farm as part of an Environmental Stewardship scheme.

Dewponds are more usually found in chalk areas, such as the Yorkshire Wolds or the South Downs.  There, legends abound that they were first built by Neolithic man.

Such legends are, so far, unproven.  Since English Nature found that 80% of dewponds on the Wolds had disappeared since the 1950s, any Neolithic ponds must have been maintained and repaired for millennia.

A greater mystery of dewponds is how they fill.  There are anecdotes of dewponds on high ground remaining full during droughts when spring fed lowland ponds run dry.

This mystery remains unsolved, with dew, rain, fog and mist all being considered to be the source of water.

Ann restored her dewpond in order to attract wildlife to the farm.  The pond, reconstructed according to its archaeological record, is lined with gritstone, which would have protected the clay liner from the feet of watering animals.  Derelict dewponds lose their water due to damage to the clay lining, often from the roots of plants.

Ann has seen deer and rabbits drinking at the pond, but so far, she has seen no amphibians, although these have colonised other dewponds.  I visited in the first spring after the pond was built, and could see countless diving beetles, flatworms, and mosquito larvae.  There were also plenty of pond skaters.  With a food supply like that, I’m sure it will be only a matter of time before animals wishing to eat these bugs turn up.

Natural England has supported Ann’s conservation measures, and when I visited, workers were setting insect traps, to discover what insects that had colonised her farm.  They were surveying many different habitats, in order to discover what conditions favoured the different species groups.

As insects generally are at the bottom of the food chain, their discoveries will help us to understand the complexities of farming for both food and wildlife.

Links.

Ann Strang is part of Natural England’s Education Access Scheme.  Appointments can be made for visits to participating farms: see http://cwr.naturalengland.org.uk/Default.aspx?Module=EducationalSiteDetails&Site=5541

To learn more about dewponds, visit http://dewponds.co.uk/index.htm

Ann Strang beside the restored dewpond

Ann Strang beside the restored dewpond

Meanwhile, at Husthwaite, they will be preparing to harvest their fruit.  When I visited, back in April, Cameron Smith was anxiously surveying the 514 fruit trees that his group had planted last autumn, to see how many had survived the winter.

He was particularly worried about the 200-odd trees in the newly established village orchard, as they had severe rabbit damage.  “We put spiral tree guards to protect the trees,” he explained, “But we had a foot of snow, and this took the rabbits to the top of the tree guard.”  Many of the trees had been severely nibbled by hungry rabbits, and if the bark was ‘ringed’ – eaten all the way round the tree, it kills the tree.

As well as the orchard group, Cameron is a member of the history society that initiated the interest in the orchards.

Cameron was particularly excited about finding some whale bones.  He said that sometime between 1753 and 1833, some whale jaw-bones were given to the village, in recognition of the fruit supplied to whaling boats.  “People thought it was just a story – but we found the whalebones,” he told me.  “They had them as an arch across the Malton road.”

He described how Husthwaite, a village of enterprising smallholders, grew in prosperity on its fruit trade.  He said, “Husthwaite even had a sort of early industrial park: a dozen barns and buildings with trades associated with the work round here, such as agricultural engineering.  It became a hub for the surrounding villages, with a shop, pub and so on.”

The history society surveyed householders to identify old varieties of fruit in their gardens, and to record anecdotes from those who could recall Husthwaite’s commercial fruit business.

“In 1941,” he said, “There were 32 orchards, 19 attached to cottages in the village, and 10 on farms.”

“In 1948, a storm knocked all the pears down, but a man from Co Durham came and bought them all, to make jam.  He made several return journeys, because he couldn’t fit them all on his wagon – and he paid over £300 for them.

Cameron is full of enthusiasm for his fruit, describing old varieties of Yorkshire apples that he is grafting, in order to preserve stocks for the future.  He is working with Brogdale, the national centre for fruit.  He says, “There are only two known mature trees of the Wass Apple, so we’re grafting that like mad.  Brogdale have accepted that now.  And we’ve found another in Crayke, known locally as Lady Long.  That’s being investigated to see if it’s unique.  The fruit looks similar to Wass, but it’s different: Wass is a late cooker, while Lady Long is a dessert apple.”

House in Husthwaite with remnants of ancient orchards in the garden

A house in Husthwaite with historic fruit trees in the garden

To see the latest on Husthwaite’s fruit, see their website at www.orchardsofhusthwaite.co.uk

To learn more about the national fruit collection’s work to preserve genetic resources for the future, see www.brogdale.org

To read more about all these people, buy Dalesman Magazine, www.dalesman.co.uk

Dalesman for August 2010

The new August Dalesmans are out, marking Yorkshire Day by celebrating a few of the many wonderful things about our Broad Acres.

The people I met this  month all contribute to those wonderful things.  Dennis Edmondson recalls many years serving Dalesfolk with their practical needs.  Four ‘Bobbies’ working the villages on the northern escarpment of the Moors celebrate the pleasures of getting to know the people on their patch, and volunteers in Pickering look forward to a big event for Yorkshire Day.

When I visited Dennis Edmondson, he reassured me that the scone he brought with my tea was fresh – unlike the one described in his book, that he bit into eagerly, only to find the bottom covered in green mould.

It was a rare mishap in a book full of  happy memories, recording his years as the travelling representative for Spence’s Ironmongers, supplying hardware, ironmongery and household goods to people who rarely, if ever, travelled away from their Dales homesteads.

In those days, without telephones or cars, people used different methods of keeping in touch.  For instance, “In every house Arkengarthdale,” Dennis told me, “there was a pair of binoculars on the windowsill, so they could see what their neighbours were doing.  It wasn’t malicious: it was a natural connection.  They’d see their neighbour preparing for haymaking, and know that they’d better get ready too.”

Between Arkengarthdale and Tan Hill, he had to walk the last mile across the moor to the farmhouse.  Fog came down while Dennis had tea there one November afternoon – and the farmer, fearful that Dennis might get lost on the moor, escorted him back to his car.

It was typical of the kindnesses that Dennis reciprocated as he became a carrier of messages between relatives in different districts, who rarely saw each other.

His book solved a mystery for me.  I’d always wondered why there were tramlines in Friar’s Wynd, Richmond.  They were installed, explained Dennis, by Spence’s in 1894, to facilitate moving goods from warehouses in the Wynd to the shop in the market place.  Parts of the tramlines were removed, he said, when the pavements were re-laid.

Dennis remembers pushing trolleys in those tramlines, carrying stock from the warehouses to the shop.  The motive power was men: often, the trolleys were so heavy that it took two or three men to push them.  At the time, said Dennis, the theatre was semi-derelict, but the area at the back of the stage was used as warehouses.  Spence’s also had a steel warehouse in Finkle Street, where they produced hand-made nails and horseshoes.

Dennis showed me the chair by the fire where he sat, writing his book longhand, from memory.  “It was a different world, and the book gives a glimpse of it.  It was only the 40, 50s and 60s, but the quickness of change since the War has been tremendous,”  he said.

“When I began travelling, there four drapers’ stores in Richmond, and they sent out representatives too.  Sometimes I’d bump into the drapers’ travellers, having meals  at the same house as me.  But gradually, they all disappeared.  As cars came in, people were able to travel more.”

Travelling caused many changes.  People would go to Darlington for cheaper goods – but then, lost the service that Spence’s provided.  Dennis comments, “In effect, Spence’s financed many small tradesmen, as we’d supply orders, and they were paid for on my next journey, six months later.”

Spence’s had a delivery network that would be a model of environmental good practice today.  As an apprentice, Dennis was often sent to put goods onto the bus to Gunnerside.  He said, “Percival’s – who ran the buses – had a shop in Gunnerside, and people went there to collect their goods.  There were also people in the Dales called Carriers.  For instance, Yore Mills was a flour mill then.  They brought the flour to Richmond station, and when the empty wagons went back, they called at Spence’s to see if anything needed to go back.”

For fans of Dennis’ writing, there’s hope of a ‘prequel’.  He says, “I’m thinking about writing about growing up in the 30s, in Ravensworth.  I knew everyone in the village: eccentrics, tradesmen etc.  Probably only one or two of them are left now, but I remember them all.”

To buy Dennis’ book, call him on 01748 822692

Dennis would recognise many of the exhibits at the Beck Isle museum, especially the recreated ironmonger’s  store.  The Museuem is a treasure trove of what was ordinary and is now extraordinary.  The bulk of its collections are what Chairman Roger Dowson describes as ‘everyday objects from local life.’

So it is here that you will find a Grandmother’s knitting needles, a Grandfather’s chisels – and somebody’s stone axe, the basic household tool of the Stone Age.

The strength of the museum lies in its depiction of the lives of people who didn’t make it onto the national stage, but were treasured by their own families.  In this respect, the museum acts as the ‘family attic’ of the townspeople of Pickering and its area.  Many volunteers see their own families in the photographic collections, and visitors come to research familiy histories.

Roger says that the museum has a regionally important collection of photographs inluding a large body of work by Sidney Smyth, depicting life in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.

There are also two guardsmen, painted by artist Reg Whistler, whose life was tragically cut short in Normandy in 1944.  Roger says, “The guardsmen were painted as stage props for a children’s Christmas party in the Memorial Hall in 1943.

But it’s the everyday objects that bring history to life; the grocers’ shop, the dairying equipment, used daily within living memory, the sewing needles, and the toys.

The  history in the museum lives anew as volunteers use the tools to maintain the artefacts, and teach new volunteers how to use them.

There is always room for more volunteers.  In a recent foray into the stores, Kim Shoobridge says she sorted 55 boxes of ephemera relating to local people, businesses, and events.  It is a treasure trove for family history researchers, and visitors come from as far afield as Canada and Australia to learn more about their families and the area they lived in.

Even without family connections, the museum is a fascinating insight into the everyday lives of people living and working in a Yorkshire  market town.

For more information about the Beck Isle Museum, visit www.beckislemuseum.org

a room at the Beck Isle museum is filled with hand-operated dairy equipment

Dairying equipment at the Beck Isle Museum, Pickering

To read more, see the Yorkshire Dalesman